Ford Focus ST Clutch Upgrade
Clutches are wear items you'll eventually need to replace whether you're stock or not. We carry everything from a Ford OEM clutch to full race, multi-disc setups. Choosing the right one can be tricky and we get asked about it a lot. With the exception of a few outliers that have more extreme needs, these are what we recommend every time, to almost every customer.
All the info is below, but if you want even more resources, fill out the form and we'll send you a jam-packed email with:
- A pdf copy of this page
- Links to all kits and parts suggested
- Complete list of torque specs for all relevant bolts/fasteners
- A few additional clutch kit recommendations
All your research... DONE. When you're ready for a clutch upgrade, you'll have everything lined up.
.png?width=600&height=360&name=Focus%20ST%20Clutch%20Upgrade%20Landing%20Page%20Header%20(1).png)
Competition Clutch Stage 2
For the price, this is a ridiculously good value and the clear winner for anyone with bolt-on power upgrades, including some mild turbo upgrades. We recommend this for the following uses.
- Up to about 350 lb. ft. of torque to the wheels
- Daily drivers
- The occasional, casual track day or 1-2 launches down the drag strip
The organic compound engages smoothly and drives nice but isn't good for excessive heat and abuse. If you have a stock or mild turbo upgrade and only ever drive on the street, this is a no brainer.
*Does not come with alignment tool or release bearing.
.png?width=500&height=500&name=Untitled%20(7).png)
ACT Heavy Duty 6 Puck Clutch
This kit utilizes ACT's most popular Heavy Duty pressure plate which grabs hard but doesn't increase pedal pressure to a crazy level. ACT says it's capable of 640 lb. ft. torque, more than virtually any ST will ever make. It does have a steel flywheel which we like more than aluminum for anything other than pure track use. I also like that it comes with the nicer Focus RS metal bodied slave cylinder/release bearing. We recommend this kit for the following uses.
- Drag racing
- Hard track use
- Daily drivers or weekend warriors that seek a high level of performance, even if it means it's uncomfortable to drive normally
Ceramic, segmented friction surfaces are great for engagement, holding power, and being abused. They are not good for going to the grocery store. They're noisy and rough and you should not get this if you care about having an easy drive to work.
*Does not come with flywheel bolts.
.png?width=500&height=500&name=Untitled%20(6).png)
Ford OEM
There are many cases where we recommend the OEM clutch. Even with all the bolt-ons and a tune, it actually holds up well and if your flywheel is in good shape, you only need the clutch by itself. The price is far less than anything in the performance world and it maintains the same comfort with decent holding capacity.
With how much torque it makes, a Focus ST with full bolt-ons and a tune has the ability to wear out a stock clutch fairly quickly if you are constantly pounding on it. So we recommend this clutch only if you drive the car normally with spirited driving here and there, or if you have no modifications. If you have anything bigger than a stock turbo, we would not recommend this clutch in most cases.
*Must purchase flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, release bearing, and alignment tool separately. Does not come with flywheel.
.png?width=500&height=500&name=Untitled%20(8).png)
Other Parts You Might Need
We get asked all the time about what else you might need to get before you do a clutch job. Here are 5 things to consider replacing or having while the transmission is out of the car. Some are considered mandatory.
Flywheel Bolts
.png?width=500&height=500&name=Untitled%20(12).png)
The stock bolts are "torque-to-yield" bolts which means they stretch a bit when you tighten them down and never retain their original shape. In other words, they are one time use. Not only do we recommend them, but Ford's manual does too. Don't skip this. 7,000 rpms depends on them holding strong. OEM bolts are acceptable or you can get a nice set of ARP hardware.
Slave Cylinder/Release Bearing
.png?width=500&height=500&name=Untitled%20(13).png)
Where many manual cars have separate units, in the Focus ST, this is one integrated unit. It's placed inside the transmission housing which means it's sort of crazy not to replace. The stock one works just fine in most cases but if you want an upgraded one, the stock Focus RS version fits and is metal, not plastic. Some kits come this and some don't. The Comp Clutch doesn't, the ACT does.
Stainless Clutch Line
.png?width=500&height=500&name=Untitled%20(14).png)
This Clutch Masters version could be considered a "while you're in there" mod but it is certainly useful at the end of the day. Anytime you apply pressure in a line with liquid, anything that can expand will, since liquid doesn't compress. Creating a more solid structure for fluid transfer is a plus for driver feel and performance. This is NOT necessary, but is an upgrade.
Alignment Tool
.png?width=500&height=300&name=Untitled%20(10).png)
Most aftermarket kits come with one but sometimes they don't. The Comp Clutch and OEM kit do not come with it. If you've ever tried to install a clutch without it, you end up either getting frustrated or very lucky. It is possible to damage the disc if you put on the transmission while it's not perfectly aligned so it's highly recommended. These are always available separately if you need.
Rear Main Seal
.png?width=500&height=300&name=Untitled%20(9).png)
In theory, this shouldn't need to be replaced and in fact, usually you can be confident yours will continue to seal just fine. However, it's definitely worth inspecting and if there are any signs of oil seepage, it's wise to replace while you're doing a clutch. Or, if you just want peace of mind, it's not a bad idea.